Planing

With the help of my friend Josh, the entire lot of yellow cedar lumber has been run through the big stationary planer to a near-finished surface. From here The lumber now will be re-sawn to around 5/8" thick as the finished planks will tentatively be 7/16".

Lofting Begins

The lofting process of the Matinicus has begun. Three sheets of plywood with lap-joints between make up the 4'x24' lofting floor. My friend Jeff, who arranged the workshop space, had some extra rigid foam insulation which I used to keep the floor off the cement and away from any water or moisture. Both sides were painted with a gallon of flat white interior paint. The lap joints have some shallow screws holding them together so the whole thing can be disassembled if need be.

Most boat loftings involve three views:

• Profile - Just like a police profile, looking at the boat from the side. No bail required. 
• Half-Breadth - The boat from a fish-eye view, cut in half length-wise. 
• Body Plan - Looking at the boat from bow or stern, with half cross-sections drawn at regular intervals. 

An example of the three views below (not a Matinicus)

These three views allow for one to accurately draw a three-dimensional shape on a two-dimensional surface. Setting up the lofting surface is similar to creating a big, accurate, piece of graph paper. It involves making axis where points will be plotted. So far I'm just drawing the "graph paper" with no more than 1/16 of error. So no rushing or drinking allowed.

Below you can see the intersection of the baseline in the profile view, and the "AP" or aft perpendicular which will line up with the aft-end or stern of the boat. There will be many other vertical lines that intersect this horizontal line at 90deg. Pretty exciting.

The tools required aren't complicated: A string, nails to stretch the string across, sharp pencils, sharpener, good erasers, a straightedge, and some paper to keep track o' things.

Lofting and working from plans is a good review of middle/high-school math. Long division and geometry is handy. Drawing the lines with a square is a good start but checking them by measuring out a right triangle can ensure great accuracy. A 3:4:5 triangle is easiest, so measuring sides of 30 and 40 inches should result in a 50 hypotenuse. If not, time to erase and try again.

Now that I have the grid laid out I'll soon be able to start plotting points, bending wooden battens, and drawing the curves of the hull.

5 New Frames Installed!

On Sunday 11/23 we were on a roll and installed 5 new oak frames. Considering our prior maximum was two in one day thing's are looking up. We're starting to establish rhythms and cut the fat from what's not working. Thanks to a friend with a big double burner camp stove we were able to switch to boiling the oak stock in the stainless steel basin pictured below. The steambox has been working but now that we have enough heat boiling is a faster and more thorough alternative. I've worked with a shipwright in the past where we boiled 2x2" oak frames in used automotive coolant. We're just sticking with water on this project, and we'll keep more owners in the neighborhood happier this way. The oak still stays in the boiling water bath for at least two hours and gets pretty noodly. Our goal is to use solid stock for the frames as much as possible without having to cut a kerf. We've still installed a few kerfed frames near the stern where the turn of the bilge is quite sharp. Refer to the image below for a very thorough illustration of kerfed frames....

It's hard to see below, but there's a double propane burner under the 6+ foot long tank.

Derrick verifying that there is indeed a giant hole in the side of the boat. Likely he's considering what preparatory work needs finished before we pull the boiled frame out of the tank.

The photos below are from a few weeks back but illustrate well how a frame can break. If this frame had been more thoroughly steamed (or boiled) it likely would not haven broken. The close-up of the break illustrates how we don't have perfectly straight grain in the stock, but rather it is angled slightly to the 'sides' and creates the opportunity for the grain to start lifting at the corners. There's still good wood in there so all is not lost.

Matinicus Planking Stock

Today I picked up my planking stock a few miles north of the border in British Columbia. I ordered the lumber through Cowichan Lumber, which mainly deals with wholesalers and large orders. All planks are 2" thick and either 18 or 20 feet long. For a lesson on the stimulating language of the lumber industry, I ordered my lumber from a larger tally of:

2X10 & 2X12 GRN C&BTR CLR MG YC RGH

....meaning.....

• 2x10"s and 2x12"s
• GRN= green (not kiln or air dried)
• C&BTR = the grade is "C & Better Clear." Clear vertical grain (CVG) is the highest quality, the most expensive, is virtually knot-free, and has the grain perpendicular to the flat face of the board. The next grades include "A & Better" and "B & Better". C & Better allows for medium pitch streaks, limited pin holes, hit and miss skips, and a limited number of knots. 
• MG = Mixed grain. The collection of boards are a mix of cuts from the tree, resulting in different orientations of the grain. 
• YC= Yellow Cedar (Cupressus nootkatensis)
• RGH = Rough-cut. The stock has not been planed to exact dimensions, nor has it been planed or shaped after drying and any resulting cupping or distortion.

About half of my boards include both flat and slash grain. A few boards have purely slash grain. I did not get any pure edge/vertical grain lumber as the fasteners which hold lapstrake planks together may split wood with vertical grain along a growth ring. (The black and white drawing of a log illustrates how different cuts of lumber will tend to shrink and change shape after drying.) I ordered 389 board/feet (1"x12"x12") of yellow cedar. Since the finished planking will be 7/16" thick I plan to re-saw the 2" thick planks down to 1". On certain boards I may be able to re-saw the boards into three 5/8" thick planks if I'm lucky. Since the boards are rough-cut they will need surface planed first. Whatever thickness is left is what I will have to work with and re-saw into thinner boards.

Right now the (rather expensive) planks are acting as air fresheners for the Schooner Zodiac's warehouse. They are stickered (separated by little sticks of wood) and will continue to air dry for the time being. They will be surface planed on-site and taken elsewhere to be re-sawed.

First New Frame

Today we installed the first new white oak steam bent frame. This is out of about a dozen or so frames so no great celebration is called for yet. We tried to install the two frames (below) yesterday but realized we needed a better method to get the frames to take full shape of the planking. A kerf (the long cut parallel to the grain in the lower piece below) was made for half the length of the frame to make bending easier. Better not to kerf if possible, but it's even better not to break all our frame stock. Boiling the frames would probably be a more reliable method to make them flexible but we can't justify investing in the setup, so long as we are patient with the steambox.

The steambox setup. A standard plywood box ~77 inches long. The 'boiler' is an old galvanized tank purchased from Pacific Marine Exchange on closing day for 50% off. The closing of the PME is a sad day for boat maintainers and junk purveyors in the region.

(Above) The short half-moon-looking templates were scribed and cut from 2x10s. These will be clamped against the steamed frames to distribute the clamping pressure and help convince the frames to bend to their new shapes.

Bob removing the first frame after about 2 hours of steaming.

(Above) Stressing the new frame before bending in place. The fibers on the outside face lifted and the frame broke. Luckily the other steamed (& kerfed)  frame went in without too much complaint. Bob (below) pointing out the fine work.

Our first and second attempts at boiling or steaming our new frame stock were unsuccessful. We borrowed a stainless-steel trough to boil the white oak but didn't have enough heat (with two BBQ grills!) to get the water hot or boiling. Our second temporary solution was to invert the trough and direct the steam from our small steel boiler into that while controlling the escape of steam. Again, too much heat loss. The first 1.5"x2" piece of oak promptly broke when we were checking its bend. So, we've completed our plywood steam box and rigged a tight steam-hose fitting to one end with the opposite end lightly sealed to promote steam moving through the box. We've also padded the inside ceiling with 2" foam insulation.

Since we're doing the restoration at G.R. Plume & Company's location we are lucky to have some quality stock accessible. Including the 20+ foot piece of 2" thick, plain-sawn, air dried white oak pictured below. Flat grain is desired for bending stock, as opposed to the vertical grain often prized in structural wood, planking stock, etc.

 

Frame stock is 1 3/8" thick by 1 7/8" wide. 72" long. 

 

Nearly flat grain (above). Provides great bite for fasteners and takes advantage of the natural flexibility of wood. This week we'll be putting the new steambox setup to the test and hope to install the first two or three new frames.

Mattie

Today I visited Mattie, another Matinicus Double-Ender, owned by Ben here in Whatcom County. It was built from the same plans I'll be building from, however it was constructed in 1990 and is of plywood/epoxy construction. Mattie has a traditional open-hull design where I may do a small partial deck. It's a beautiful boat.

Frame Removal

The demolition continues. We've removed the portside bilge ceiling as well as the entire cockpit sole and cockpit beams (oak). This makes it far easier to inspect the frames & planking and replace where needed. We've determined that 8 frames on the starboard side need addressed. After a meeting of the braintrust we've decided to replace the bad frames entirely rather than install new frames next to the existing ones (known as "sistering"). Scarphing and joining new partial frames to existing good wood would also be a pain. So, the contemplative and slow process of removing the bungs and putty on the planking fasteners has begun. We will unfasten and remove one rotten frame, steam bend a new locust or oak frame in place, and lather-rince-repeat. We will likely have to do the same with several frames on the portside as well. All frames forwards of amidships (halfway between bow & stern) are solid. Most structural members are oak.

In the photo above we have fully removed one rotten frame. This will likely be the first new frame to be steam bent and replaced within a few days.

Above, Bob and Fritz appreciating the value of a good brace & bit.

We'll be working on the Sea Mew under tarp cover through the Winter months. We'll have to come up with some creative tarping when we replace the decking or hope for a few rainless days. 

New Build

After months of considering different designs I bought plans for a Matinicus Double Ender in September. The design is modeled after the sea-worthy lobstering double-enders of Matinicus, Maine. This design is by Walter Simmons of Duck Trap Woodworking. The new boat's construction will be riveted lapstrake (a.k.a clinker) with either yellow or red cedar planking. The completed boat will look something like the design below. The lug-yawl rig is likely, I'm not yet resolved to build a deck or go with an open-hull.

(Image credit http://sailingskiffs.blogspot.com)

Lofting will begin in earnest in November. Construction of a decent lofting floor and acquiring some good lofting battens will happen in the coming weeks. I am currently shopping around for rough-cut green or air-dried cedar lumber. Workshop space has graciously been made for the project in the warehouse of the Schooner Zodiac (www.schoonerzodiac.com). My standing goal is to finish the boat in entirety by the end of 2015.

Sea Mew Restoration Begins

Sea Mew was purchased on September 29th and restoration began the following week. Cooperatively owned, she is being restored by four owners with the hopes of being launched by May of 2015. Work is being done on a trailer outdoors under tarp cover. The photo above is some 10+ years ago of the boat under sail in New England.

Sea Mew was built in 1981 by John E Wilbur in Noank, Connecticut. With a catboat hull and a gaff-sloop rig she was designed after the Noank Sloops. These workboats were intended for oystering, lobstering, and line fishing in the open waters off of Connecticut. Their design can be traced back to the similar New York sloops. Sea Mew is 26 feet long overall, 20 feet long at the waterline, has an 8 foot beam and a 3 foot draft. She weighs in around 4000 lbs. Frames and structural wood is white oak and the hull is carvel planked with white cedar. A centerboard compliments the full length shallow keel to allow for beaching and shallow landings. There is an inboard Palmer Wisconsin PW-27 single cylinder 8 horsepower gasoline engine currently not operational. Max powered speed is 4 knots with a cruising speed of 3 knots.

As of today the cabin top has been removed as has most of the interior of the cockpit. The entire deck will need replaced as will most of the upper starboard quarter. Many upper frames are rotten and will need replaced to new frames sistered in. After being out of the water for 10+ years the planks have shrunk and the whole hull will need to be recaulked. See photos below taken today:

More updates to come as time permits and work progresses.